Hello, I using a core 411 PCM from Nelson, set up to be like 98-02 ls1 computer, I am planning to just use the ac in standalone mode and try it like that. Now it's only the cruise left to deal with.
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Hello, I using a core 411 PCM from Nelson, set up to be like 98-02 ls1 computer, I am planning to just use the ac in standalone mode and try it like that. Now it's only the cruise left to deal with.
If your using the cable tb just hook it back up to the tb. Mine works fine on my 97. I'm going DBW now so I'll figure something out.
Well, it looks like the simplest way for cruise control so far is to use the Dakota Digital CRS-3000 that works with the gas pedal. I'm sure there's others out there but this one is proven.
I'm going to an e38 ecm and haven't found anyone who's made it work right but I'd like to follow this thread just incase someone does. I'm trashing my 411 because the e38 does so much more. Btw, nice to meet you, I haven't posted in a while. If I find a way I'll be glad to post it. I just need to look at some more schematics.
Nice to meet you too! I don't post too much either. I wasn't aware of the E38 and it's advantages. I'll have to do some more research into that. Please post what you find. i will do the same for what we are trying to do once I get more time to work on this.
Jeebalow, I'm not sure which ended you're using but I found out a 411 won't control the cruise control on a 6/l80 or 90 it has to be an e38 with cruise module to the pedal. Let me know if you find something but this info came from GM. Thanks
ECM, not ended. Durn phone spell check.
I am using a 01 ECM. I am pretty sure it is a 411. I also have a manual trans so I do not have to worry about the trans. I know nothing about trans wiring or tuning for this reason. Sorry
Did a little more searching. I think i can shed some light but a bit confused on how your set up. you say you removed the old ecm. ok thats fine. but what about the DRAC module? did you toss that too?? If so then i see what the dilema is. But if not, then you still should have the wire that goes to the cruise module because im 99% sure the DRAC is what sends that signal, not the ECM. The DRAC sends 2,000 digital pulses per mile to the ECM (Electronic Control Module), 4,000 digital pulses per mile to the cruise control module, and 128,000 digital pulses per mile to the ABS (Anti-Lock Brake) computer. Your only loss from tossing the old ecm is the speedo signal but the new one can do that provided you "T" into the VSS signal for the new pcm (which i did and it works fine).
So to clear up, they way i understand it, make sure you
1)have the twisted yellow/ppl wires from VSS going to both the DRAC and the new pcm.
2)still have signal wire from DRAC to cruise module (should still be hooked up unless you know you cut it)
3)have speedo hooked up to output of new pcm
4)and obviously still have the 3 or 4 wires from control lever/TCC to cruise unit
i assume you both have #3 done already and im betting # 2 and 4 are still connected. im also betting you cut the twisted pair from vss and put them on the new pcm. i think if you just T off the twisted pair back to the cut pair from inside the cab, this will solve your problems. just make sure to twist the two wires your going to add to cancel out any EMF that the vss creates (the reason they are twisted from the factory).
NOW, if you tossed the DRAC also, well then i still think your ok. If i understand what jeeb was saying on how he plans too hook it up (when you say splice, you are talking about "T-ing" into the wire from pcm to speedo right?), that SHOULD work as the pcm sends out a 4k ppm signal from the factory. and as stated, the cruise wants a 4k ppm signal also. BUUUUT, if you change your gears or tires, you will now need to change the tune to compensate and im not sure how that affects the output. Does changing the the tune change the actuall signal higher or lower going to the speedo? or does it modify the input to output ratio within the pcm to still output 4k ppm no matter what? if so great. but if it changes the actual output, seems to me the speedo will be correct but that means you will be sending a higher or lower ppm to the cruise in which case i have no idea how well it will like that.... may or may not be ok...
Sorry for the long post. I hope it was clear enough. lol But if all else fails i came accross this and I thought of this thread instantly. I havnt checked out the dakota digital part that NITROUS mentioned but ive been on their website before and wow... great stuff but PRICEY!! anyway, if you cant get it to work wiring it the way you described and 200 bucks is worth having cruise.... then check this out....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rpc-250-1223
or this little bad boy for a bit less might work http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd126.htm
Just some ideas