anybody ever try speed daddy headers from E-bay, they look like they would flow good and they come with a offroad Y-pipe, shipped to you for $300, they have lots other cool stuff to like turbo kits, anybody.
Thanks, BB
anybody ever try speed daddy headers from E-bay, they look like they would flow good and they come with a offroad Y-pipe, shipped to you for $300, they have lots other cool stuff to like turbo kits, anybody.
Thanks, BB
there is a newb from NC that just bought a set, can't remember his SN but look in the newb section and see if he has installed them yet
They are pretty nice headers for the coin but be prepared to do something about the back two drivers side wires. They burn really easy with that weird hump. I would recommend these for a 5.3 but not anything bigger. They are choking up my 383.
2003 GMC K1500 ECSB running an Iron 383 Stroker ......
They made it from CA to NC in 5 business days. I was pretty impressed. When they got here the 1 ply cardboard box looked like sh*t, but that was expected as I read this was the case in someone's write up. They had a couple small dings in them, but overall looked really good. They gaskets are crap, throw them away they don't fit. In anticipation of the install I looked under the hood to see what it was going to take and I noticed 2 header bolt heads were broken off. I started soaking all the bolts in PB'Laster twice a day for 5 days. This is a Michigan truck. Man that paid off! The bolts broke loose with a regular 3/8 ratchet and the broken bolts came out like butter with a pair of vise grips! I got a whole new set of bolts the day before. They are M8x1.25x30 1.25 is the thread pitch and 30 is the length. Nothing special, pretty standard. I used regular lock washers as well. Torqued to 3 elbow clicks, haha. I am a professional mechanic and do this stuff everyday. If your not familiar with this kind of work torque to spec. with a 3/8" torque wrench. They whole job including the broken bolts took me right at about 3.25 hours, most of which was cutting out the old Y pipe. That's not including installing the new -Y- pipe. It was getting late and my wife was about ready to skin my ass so I drive it home from the shop with open headers! Man that b*tch was loud. Sounded like crap at steady accel, but really sounded like a full out drag car at WOT. It took 30 miles for my check engine light to come on (no O2 sensors). After hooking up the Y pipe in my driveway the next day (took about 20min) and plugging then o2's back up it took 60 miles for the check engine light to go back out. I left my scanner at the shop otherwise I would have just reset it. The only downside to this whole project was the left header cleared the front drive shaft fine at install, but when the front diff yoke and u-joint turned it dented a left header tube and "clearanced" itself. Oh well, it didn't put a hole in it and it's not a show truck so f*ck it. I have noticed a huge torque gain! The truck pulls so much better now! I have a much better throttle response and I can also cruise at a faster speed and not feel like I'm straining the truck. I have 172k miles on this truck and this makes it feel like new. Sorry for the typos this is on my phone. Oh yeah with the factory muffler you can hardly tell sound wise that you have headers on. My Flowmaster 40 series was just delivered today ;o) I'm leaving for NY Thursday so it will have to waitany questions? I'm not good with forums...is there no alert when somebody replies to this? Gooskat@gmal.com The whole ignition wire laying on the header issue everyone talk about is really not a big deal. I knew it was going to happen so I picked up some Design Engineering wire protectors for $12.00 from Advance Auto. Part No. 010501 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ze=20&filters=
If you're going to do this install some things that might be helpful:
-Get a factory replacement exhaust manifold gasket set.
-M8x1.25x30 you will need 12.
-10mm 6 point socket for the header bolts.
-The back left header bolt had to be removed from the bottom with a wrench. I broke it loose with a long extension and swivel socket through the fenderwell.
-The factory Y pipe is a mother to remove, I had to cut it into two or three different pieces. If I had a lift I would have just removed the cross member.
-The EGR port needs to be plugged with an M10 bolt. I think its coarse thread.
-You will need 2 new bolts, nuts, 4 flat washers and 2 lock washers for the stock intermediate pipe to new Y pipe. The old Y pipe had studs. I used 3/8" bolts I think they were 1.5" long.
-The o2 sensors are 7/8" and the new o2 bung plugs take a 3/4" wrench.
-The u-bolt clamps work, but you're better off with band clamps.
-Use caution as not to break a spark plug when lifting the headers up from the bottom.
-This was on a 2002 Silverado LT Z71
-Good Luck!!!
Last edited by Bornagearhead; 08-04-2010 at 01:49 AM. Reason: Corrected email address.
Really cause I have a 5.7 already and plan on going larger, what do you have in mind blackout?
Well these headers are pretty small primaries. 1 5/8 in. so they make good torque down low but they lose some on the top end. For a 5.7 I would recommend a true 1 3/4in or 1 7/8in headers. The reason I went with the Ebay headers is that I was gonna get a turbo set-up anyways so I didnt wanna spend $1000-$1500 on headersOriginally Posted by 96/chevy/pu
2003 GMC K1500 ECSB running an Iron 383 Stroker ......
Go with Kooks 1 7/8th headers.
T-RAV99 GMC | 5.3 | Skinny White Guy Tuned
my thoughts exactly. or the ARH headers, but those are some cash!
2003 GMC K1500 ECSB running an Iron 383 Stroker ......
Kooks >>>>>> ARH IMO.
T-RAV99 GMC | 5.3 | Skinny White Guy Tuned
How about some SW's headers.. I am not a fan of china crap, but to alot of people, they like to spend the least amount they can( Not that its bad) but then inturn you get what you pay for.. I have heard more hit and miss stories with cheaper china brand headers then ever.. Just a thought
JOHN
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