+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: Gathering Parts for Swap

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    McPherson KS
    Posts
    556

    Gathering Parts for Swap

    Ok, Im starting to make a list of parts for when I eventually need to swap the 6.0 Im rebuilding into my 96 Silverado. So far I plan on budgeting about $5000 for this swap. This is what I have worked out so far in parts I will need, this is my first OBS-LSX swap so Im kinda goin in blind. If Im missing anything or if something wont work feel free to correct me on it.

    Transdapt motor mount adapter plates, Dirty Dingo F-Body oil pan, Schoenfeld headers, LS6 hot cam lifters and springs package, wiring harness and pcm tune will prolly be done by Nelson Performance, all the betls accessories and brackets will prolly come from a salvage motor or the Summit kit, Tranny will either end up getting rebuilt with a PATC kit, or replaced with a new built 4L60, not sure yet, I know I need a new style flewplate and spacer, not sure where that will come from. Thats all I have so far, Im tryin to compile parts before I tear into the truck, that way I can get it done as quick as I can and get to playin around
    Always buying things I dont need to impress people I dont know

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    473
    You have another vehicle to get around in, and chase parts with? You will definately need to install a posi unit, if you don't already have one. While your into the rear, might as well put the ring & pinion in there that you want too. Posi is not an option, it is a necessity, lol. Guess you will just drive it over to the local custom exhaust shop, when the time comes? Same with the A/C evacuation & charge? What A/C compressor you going with? Got the brackets & pullies & serpentine belt for it? What you doing for the A/C hoses & hose end fittings? What radiator & hoses you using? You will, no doubt, be relocating the transmission crossmember. So, find a driveshaft shop capable of shortening & balancing your driveshaft. You might not have to do this though. I did, because I pushed the engine & trans as far back as I could, for the best center of gravity possible. Because of this, I could no longer fit the standard transmission dip-stick tube in place. Went with an aftermarket version by Lokar, that is flexible. What transmission cooler you using(and transmission lines)? What power-steering hoses you using? Going to degrease the engine compartment frame rails, etc., and paint them first? I bought & applied two coats of black POR15 chassis black epoxy coating, before installing the engine. What electric fans are you going with? Got the relays/wiring for them? Get all your oils & filters. Make sure that your shift-shaft & lever, that sticks out of the side of your 4L60E transmission, is the longer version, that a 1996 truck needs, for the proper connection of the shift cable end. Also the nuetral safety switch with the screws, etc. If your using your original 1996 driveshaft, with the original transmission driveshaft input shaft(yoke), make sure you plug the weep hole thats down inside the yoke, or it will leak tranny fluid, which comes through from the tailstock. How & where will you be mounting your computer? What fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator & filter system are you going with? You will need high-pressure hoses & hose ends for them. The speedo on the '96 will not work, wired to the computer speedo wire, unless it is programmed for such. Same for the tach. The '96 truck's oil pressure, volt, & fuel level gauges are just simple analog dash gauges, so thats straight forward. Will you be retaining the function of your ABS brake module? Mark EVERY wire that you cut off the firewall, very important. I bought the 1996 GM Service Manual set(2) off of E-Bay, used. They also are a necessity in this swap. I probably forgot a few things, but... Nice truck. Looks just like mine.
    Last edited by LS1GMCTruck; 10-18-2010 at 12:42 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Crowder, OK
    Posts
    8,005
    I'd use a different cam too. That hotcam in a 6.0 isn't going to be the greatest. I wouldn't go with anything less thana TR224.

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
    2007 Chevy RCSB 4.8 4x4 LS SOLD
    2008 Chevy RCSB 5.3 4x4 LT SOLD
    2010 Chevy CCSB 6.2 4x4 LT SOLD
    2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
    2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    McPherson KS
    Posts
    556
    I do and I dont have another vehicle, as long as I can get this done when its not raining Ill be good haha. The truck already has a posi, which will prolly be rebuilt at a later date when funds allow. The exhaust and ac evac Ill more than likely get done at the Midas nearby, and dont think I'll end up putting ac back in. Im going to try and use the stock radiator and I have heard that the stock hoses for a NBS will work. If at all possible Im going to try and just have the original tranny rebuilt, that way I can just keep as much of the stock components as I can. If at all possible Im gonna try to avoid having to relocate the crossmember and shortening the driveshaft. For a cooler I will pick one up from PATC along with a rebuild kit. I have heard you can reuse the original power steering lines and hoses so I will try and take that route if at all possible. If I can I will try to clean and paint the engine bay, will prolly go rustoleum white with black accents if I do. Im not sure just what I will do for electric fans, will more than likely hunt down a good set from Jegs or Summit. The PCM will most likely end up being bolted to the passenger side fender, and also programmed to retain function of the stock tach and speedo. As far as ABS I will leave it alone for the time being, but eventually think that line locks may be in order...but thats a project for a later date. As for the cam, Im looking for something that will sound good, make decent power, but still be able to be streetable and get decent gas milage (this will be my daily driver). Would the TR224 be good for that?

    Again thanks so much for the help.
    Always buying things I dont need to impress people I dont know

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    McPherson KS
    Posts
    556
    Also, forgot to mention, the truck is not TBI, so I believe that aside from converting the the two line system to fit the one line injectors, everything should be able to work fine without being messed with.
    Always buying things I dont need to impress people I dont know

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    san antonio TX
    Posts
    1,365
    going to need a fuel pump. i used a walbro pump. is your rail returnless on the new intake?
    1982 c10 lsx swaped, NP tuned, true duals, 4:11s, trutrac, e-fans, CAI

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Broken Bow, OK
    Posts
    1,434
    Quote Originally Posted by lechez71 View Post
    going to need a fuel pump. i used a walbro pump. is your rail returnless on the new intake?
    His 96 fuel pump will be fine as long as it is in good working condition.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    McPherson KS
    Posts
    556
    Yes its the returnless style rails.

    And thank god the old pump will work haha
    Always buying things I dont need to impress people I dont know

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    san antonio TX
    Posts
    1,365
    i have a returnless rail also, i used vette filter/reg to keep the cost down. are you sure your pump is going to work? i researched before i did my swap and found the fuel pressure was not sufficent.
    1982 c10 lsx swaped, NP tuned, true duals, 4:11s, trutrac, e-fans, CAI

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Broken Bow, OK
    Posts
    1,434
    Quote Originally Posted by lechez71 View Post
    i have a returnless rail also, i used vette filter/reg to keep the cost down. are you sure your pump is going to work? i researched before i did my swap and found the fuel pressure was not sufficent.
    96 Vortec engines needed 60 psi, same as the 5.3/6.0

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts