Before you drop that tranny, get the TCC wired up properly. I just finished the same swap as you and that was the last thing I had to fix! Now it runs/shifts great. It was doing the same as you described, gears would not engage and grinding when placed back in park. I can take a picture of how I wired up the brake switch tommorrow if you like, it was simple once I figured it out.
1993 GMC Yukon 2dr 4x4, 6.0L/4L80E swap, Wheatley Tune, 3 inch Magnaflow true duals, 6.5 inch Dick Cepek stage 1 lift, 35's, 4.56 gears, front Posi-Lok.
worm, that would be awesome!!
1994 Suburban 2500, 6" Pro Comp lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG A/Ts, 6.0L, 4L80e, AEM Brute Force intake, Hedman headers, dual Flowmasters
Any luck with the picture?? Same as you, this is the last thing for me.
1994 Suburban 2500, 6" Pro Comp lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG A/Ts, 6.0L, 4L80e, AEM Brute Force intake, Hedman headers, dual Flowmasters
You should have a pink and purple wire for your TCC from the harness (labeled BRAKE SW in Painless harness.) Disconnect battery. Connect the harness purple wire to the purple wire in the connection behinde the glove box. Connect the harness pink wire to the brown wire on the brake switch on top of brake pedal.
OR connect purple harness wire to purple wire on brake switch and connect pink harness wire to brown wire on brake switch.
Hook up battery and drive to gas station.
Hope this helps, it worked for me! Any questions let me know.
Connection behind glove box:
Brake switch on top of brake pedal:
1993 GMC Yukon 2dr 4x4, 6.0L/4L80E swap, Wheatley Tune, 3 inch Magnaflow true duals, 6.5 inch Dick Cepek stage 1 lift, 35's, 4.56 gears, front Posi-Lok.
Bad ass man, thanks for the pics. Would it be at all possible that I dont have a brown wire coming from the brake switch? I have a pink/black, orange, white, and two purples. I am trying different combos here, but I can't get it. WHen I hook up the pink to either of the purples, the engine doesnt shut off even when I have the key out. I do see a brown on the connector behind the glove box in the first pics. Can I try on that one?
1994 Suburban 2500, 6" Pro Comp lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG A/Ts, 6.0L, 4L80e, AEM Brute Force intake, Hedman headers, dual Flowmasters
By the way, I do have the painless harness (how did you know) so I know I have the pink and purple wires right, they're labeled..ha
1994 Suburban 2500, 6" Pro Comp lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG A/Ts, 6.0L, 4L80e, AEM Brute Force intake, Hedman headers, dual Flowmasters
The wire you want to hook to will have 12v coming from it but when you press the brake pedal it will shut the power off. Hook a test light to ground and then probe the wires on the switch at the pedal to find the wire you need.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
Well they are different years, so I guess the colors could be different. Mine has 2 connectors. One has white, orange, brown, purple. The other one has two gray wires (for cruise control I think.)
If you have a voltmeter, try to find the wire that has power at all times, with and without brake depressed, when the key is in run and crank. That is where the pink wire goes. The other wire will lose power when you depress the brake, that is where the purple wire goes.
Did that make any sense?
1993 GMC Yukon 2dr 4x4, 6.0L/4L80E swap, Wheatley Tune, 3 inch Magnaflow true duals, 6.5 inch Dick Cepek stage 1 lift, 35's, 4.56 gears, front Posi-Lok.
Yes, thanks guys, let me go give it a shot.
1994 Suburban 2500, 6" Pro Comp lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG A/Ts, 6.0L, 4L80e, AEM Brute Force intake, Hedman headers, dual Flowmasters
I am struggling with this.
Here is a pic of the brake switch connection (top of brake pedal), angle was tough so its a little blurry. From left to right it goes white, orange, purple, purple, pink/black.
brakeswitch.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
On my wiring diagram it says pink/black in (from fuse), purples go to PCM and to diode module (under left side of I/P), from diode module one purple goes to 4wd indicator in instrument cluster and one purple goes to brake switch on rear wheel anti-lock module. The orange is 12v batt, hot at all times. The white is speed signal input.
The pink/black is hot in the run and start position, which is where i should put the pink wire to. The purple comes out of the brake switch so it should lose power when brake applied, makes sense purple to purple. BUT, when I wire it this way and when pink is to pink/blk wire, it will not shut off. Purple to one purple and I can't turn the key back to the off position. Purple to the other purple and I can turn it off and take the key out and it still runs.
Here's another pic of the wires looking up.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...1/wires2up.jpg
I dont get it. I can send you the wire diagram.
1994 Suburban 2500, 6" Pro Comp lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG A/Ts, 6.0L, 4L80e, AEM Brute Force intake, Hedman headers, dual Flowmasters
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